Fraser Island- A 4x4 Adventure

One of the three major natural highlights of Australia’s east coast, alongside the Great Barrier Reef and Whitsunday Islands is Fraser Island.

We spent two nights in the seaside village of rainbow beach just across from the island, where we went on a free cruise to see dolphins and otherwise did some washing and went on the internet. We were briefed about driving on the island in 4x4’s. The world’s largest sand island is a world heritage listed site, where some of Australia’s last pure Dingos roam freely alongside many rare birds and animals. Inland from the sandy coastal areas are subtropical rainforests where freshwater lakes spontaneously appear. It’s only really accessible by 4x4, with the road network a plethora of sand and mud tracks, the highlight of this being the main highway called 75 mile beach (including speed limits and regular road laws).

There were six others in our Toyota Landcruiser, three Israelis, two Americans and a German. This was part of two convoys of four which went to the island- the under 21’s in two lead vehicles driven by guides. The ferry docked at the waters edge and we drove straight onto the beach highway, cooled by the sea breeze as we thumped along the sun drenched sand in a column, slowing only to pass through freshwater streams sliding into the sea.

Speed Limits on the Beach!

We then pulled off the highway to a small hamlet, where we ate lunch, making sandwiches and eating fruit from our food box. After the radiator on our overheating car was replaced, we drove to Eli creek, where a fresh stream, the water naturally super filtered by the islands sands flows through forest into the sea.

 People slowly floated and waded down the stream, the pure water being great to drink, while small fish swam protectively in schools along the banks. There was then enough time to have a game of football by the sea, which we couldn’t swim in due to the lethal creatures lurking under the waves (bull sharks, stingrays and box jelly fish(the worlds deadliest) among others).

 

The minor delay with the car meant we arrived at the other striking beachside sites around dusk. This actually turned out to be advantageous, as although the natural rocky pools of champagne pools would have been more pleasant in afternoon heat, the view of 75 mile beach from Indian head couldn’t have been better than in the evening sun. 

Champagne Rocks

We arrived at our woodland campsite as night fell and set up our two man tents (similar to those in Noosa). The old German Diane and myself cooked really good steak and potato salad for the group (all the food was incidentally included in the tour in giant cool boxes-we just had to cook it or in the case of lunch make sandwiches) before people rolled out the drink. One of the Israelis, Peled, offered round some Jack and Coke whilst Rob and I shared our last drops of Jim Bean before starting our first box of goon. Goon is a staple for many backpackers in Australia- costing around $10 for a 4.5 litre silver bag of rough white wine. We hadn’t had it up to now as it is pretty revolting stuff, alongside this it is powerful- it’s a memory wiper- even if you’re not particularly drunk you just remember nothing for hours on end. During the memorable part of the night we played card games with the Frenchies we met Kayaking at Noosa and two English girls we met in the hostel prior to arriving.

Our second day on Fraser took us firstly to the rusting wreck of the ship S.S. Maheno which was being towed to Japan for scrap in 1935 when a storm hit and washed it up on the beach.

Then we headed inland, I had my turn driving the 4x4 for 30 mins along bumpy dirt tracks(where the Israelis, all of whom had done 3 years compulsory national service provided me with really useful driving tips). Incidentally one of them Tzahi(Z-a-h-ee) looked just like Adam Sandler and got loads of people pointing it out to him. The drive lead us to the most visited lake on the island, Lake Mackenzie. This is an oasis, the flour soft sweeping white sands which never chaffed the skin, leading into the turquoise clear waters of the lake. It is a ‘perched’ lake so contains only rainwater with no streams entering it or groundwater topping it up. I wished I had had goggles as I could have swam into the reeds where turtles hide from the tourists- our guide managed to catch one and showed everybody. Bliss. 

Adam Sandler?

That evening was spent camped next to the sea, under the ceiling of stars again playing cards and chatting, though now just sipping goon. Diane again cooked all of us food as she had for breakfast that morning (me and rob stumbled out of bed to scrambled eggs on toast all made up!). The friendly, yet typically American couple, realized at this point that there weren’t people to wash up plates for us and that you had to do it yourself(hands over face moment)!

 

The final day was spent at a quite different inland lake. A 2km walk through forest suddenly leads to a great sandy plain, like a desert, next to which is another freshwater lake. The environment was strange there couldn’t have been more of contrast of scene- the spiders, greenery and health of the subtropical forest standing meters from the barren lifeless desert. People from the groups rolled down the giant sand dunes into the lake, whilst others, like myself, just waded about.

Due to all of its beauty, the island is protected by really strong environmental laws; you’re not allowed to take a whiz there unless you dig a hole in the ground first, and use of any shampoo or soap has to be 50 meters away from freshwater lakes. Your not allowed to feed wild dogs, and need to keep food in a vehicle overnight. When there, we had no washing up liquid. Of course these rules meant we didn’t shower for the whole time, so upon returning to our hostel in rainbow beach there was a queue for the shower in our room!  

We spent a quiet last evening in the empty hostel bar with the guys from our car before setting off on an 11 hour coach journey to Emu Park. Here we stayed at the best hostel on the trip so far, no bunk beds, a great pool and communal area with kind staff. We also saw thousands of crabs on the beach!

Hostel In Emu Park